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Royal Caribbean Cruise Line
Brilliance of the Seas
Cruise Review


Thomas St. George

Itinerary:12-Day Mediterranean
Sailing Date: July 8th, 2008
Age: 49
Occupation: teacher/professor
Number of Cruises: 4

 

My wife and I booked a twelve-day Mediterranean cruise through Royal Caribbean (R.C.) on the Brilliance of the Seas (B.O.S.). We took our three grown children ages 23, 21, and 19, along with our youngest son who was 12. The cruise began on July 8, 2008 and ended on July 20, 2008. Recognizing that many readers have particular areas of interest, specific areas of discussion have been set in bold throughout this review.

We booked our flights through Royal Caribbean International. On the outbound flights we flew Air France. The usual evaluation of Air France is that the food is great and everything else is a maybe. Our trip tended to validate this opinion. The food was great and, unlike most United States carriers, alcoholic drinks were gratis in coach. The entertainment was also up to today’s standards: There was a nice selection of movies, video games, flight data, television shows, and news. However, significant issues deterred from the fine fare and viewing.

 

 

We left Los Angeles late, but the captain made up the time in-flight. Grateful to have plenty of time to catch our connection to Barcelona, we gleefully prepared to disembark our Boeing 777 upon arrival to Charles D’Gaulle Airport. Unfortunately, there were no open gates, which meant we sat on the tarmac. Fifteen minutes later a gate opened up. Once at the gate we all stood up, as passengers leaving planes tend to do---and we waited. After ten minutes we were told that the gangway had broken. Thirty minutes later, the problem was rectified, but time was now more critical. In the airport we discovered that Air France operated many terminals, none of which were connected. Thus, we asked for directions. Following the pointing finger of a Frenchmen, we hopped on what we hoped was the appropriate train to head to another terminal. Yet when we read the signs, it was obvious the train we were on was not bound for anywhere we wanted to go. Back off the train, mildly panicked, we looked for a friendlier Frenchmen and new directions. This time we were told to get on a bus, which we dutifully did. Thankfully, the bus was the right one and we made it to our gate. When we arrived it was obvious that there was a large, angry crowd at the gate. The flight was not only late, but it could not come to this gate; we were to be bussed out to a runway-holding area for boarding.

Before we were allowed on the bus, we needed to show our tickets. Oops, in Los Angeles the ticket agent forgot to stamp my boarding pass for the connection to Barcelona. Consequently, I was informed that, while my family could board, my boarding pass was not valid because it was not stamped. Air France demanded my ticket, but thanks to R.C. only giving E-tickets, and not the kind that used to get people on to the good rides at Disneyland, I could only show them my empty pockets. Whether it was the empty pockets or my pathetic, American-traveler act, they eventually acquiesced and allowed me to join my family. In time our plane arrived, and soon we were winging our way to Barcelona. This time the doors opened, and we made our way to the luggage carousel (with all the implied double meaning that word brings). The luggage took forever to arrive, and it was never quite clear which of the ten carousels were to be used. Thankfully, oh so thankfully, all twelve pieces arrived. We learned later that one of our neighbors on the ship did not get any of their luggage; it never came to the ship, and they were told that it was going to be months before it arrived. Thank you Air France for having pity on my family.

Luggage in tow, we sought out the ubiquitous guys with the signs. Finding ours, we were put into a cab. After fifteen minutes, despite severe jetlag, it was clear that we were going in circles. I didn’t know much Spanish, but I knew it was not a good sign when the driver said to his dispatcher, “Donde esta Hotel Diagonal Barcelona?” Several more dondes later we made it to the hotel. They had our rooms and were expecting us, which is good after a long transatlantic flight. The Hotel Diagonal was clean and upscale. Our only issue was that the bathrooms were made of glass, and not the kind that become opaque with the flip of the switch. It was as if the designer had seen an article in Architectural Digest but failed to understand the entire concept. For the grown children a transparent bathroom was more family bonding than they had bargained for, but it was a minor problem.

 

 

The next day we were picked up by our R.C.-arranged connection. The connection was on time. We quickly made it through the ship’s check in (ten minutes). Note: Be prepared, R.C. does take your passports at check in and does not return them until the end of the cruise. I definitely had a problem with this, but what can you do? As with most cruises, a sea pass card served as passengers’ identification on the ship and was issued to each passenger before boarding. R.C. recommended that we use our driver’s licenses as identification when ashore? Once on the ship, we went to guest relations in order to get Internet for one son, and a soda wrist band for the other. We opted not to get Internet in the room, because we were told by guest relations that it was too slow to be useful. Instead, we took a 150 minute Internet connection ($50), which was accessed through RC’s computers or on our own. This connection proved quick enough for my son to communicate well with his office. The soda wrist band did not go so well (these bands gave a guest unlimited fountain sodas). There must have been a problem in communication, as we found out later the wrist band my son received was the standard children’s identification wrist band. Thus, we had to sign him up a second time. After guest relations, it was off to Portifino for dinner reservations (more about the Portifino later).

One other first-day chore was asking the Maitre de to move our family to a six-person table. We were one of the first groups on the ship, making this a fairly simple request. However, he wanted to negotiate, “If you switch from 9:00 p.m. seating to a 6:30 seating, I’ll get you the table that you want.” Normally, this would not have been a problem, but this twelve-day Mediterranean cruise was very port intensive; meaning, guests often would not return to the ship until 6:00 p.m. or after. Early seating just wasn’t going to work. I then had a feeling that he wanted an immediate gratuity. This wasn’t going to happen---no six-person table, no immediate gratuity, no end-of-the-cruise gratuity.

The basics out of the way, we headed for the stateroom, which opened at 1:00 p.m. Our luggage began arriving almost immediately, and by 2:00 p.m. we had all twelve pieces. Our stateroom attendant was Anna Palmer, who quickly introduced herself to us. She, like the vast majority of B.O.S. staff, was friendly and exceptionally hardworking. We had a couple of requests for her on the first day, including a roll away bed, extra hangers, and the removal of the mini-bar contents. She readily helped with all of the preceding, along with many other requests made during the trip: forgotten safe code, locked out child, and dry cleaning services. Unlike the Maitre de, Anna was well rewarded for her exemplary service.

Our cabin 7004 was the family suite. It was located at the very front of the ship. Literally, there were no cabins beyond ours. I had never stayed that far forward before and wondered about the amount of sway we would feel. When the seas were beyond three feet, there was a noticeable difference between our cabin and areas in the middle of the ship. (If a person had a tendency toward sea sickness, these cabins would probably not be a good choice.) Our family did well in the seasickness department, so the cabin was perfect. There were two large windows that faced forward; this forward viewing provided an interesting perspective. Under the windows were two ledges, which some of us used to sit on as we looked out the window. Our stateroom had a small separate area with bunk beds, along with a second separate area with a large bed. Privacy in both of these bedroom locations was provided by a curtain. Also, there was a couch in the main room that converted into a bed. In addition, we ordered a roll-away bed. When the beds were not out, there was plenty of room. However, if someone got up in the middle of the night, there was precious little walking room. For a family of five or six the space was perfect. Royal Caribbean allowed seven in these family suites, which probably would have become a little cramped.

The lifeboat drill began at 5:15 p.m. We headed off for our station, but we were stopped and told that our particular station would not actually be used for the drill, only in a real emergency. Indeed, we never saw our real station during the cruise and were never quite sure where it was. However, since the Brilliance kept itself above water, our ignorance was not a problem. The lifeboat drill was a little longer than those on ships in the United States as all instructions throughout the cruise were repeated in Spanish, but this made sense since there were many travelers from Spain on the trip. After the lifeboat drill, it was bon voyage and then party time.

The sail-away party was held around the pool from 6:45 p.m. to 7:45 p.m., which was great for those of us with late seating, not so great for the early seaters. By 9:00 p.m. we were off to dinner at the Minstrel (the main dining room). Note: the Minstrel was on two decks. First serving for both seatings, 6:00 p.m. or 8:30 p.m., ate on Deck 5, with second serving, 6:30 p.m. and 9:00 p.m., eating on Deck 4. Our waitress, Bernadette, was great. From the first day to the last, she kept extra appetizers, entrees, and desserts coming to the table. Another nice surprise was that our tablemates had been well chosen. They were a family traveling with a grown child and an older minor child. We soon settled into a great dinner, with stimulating conversation. Shrimp cocktail, although definitely not very original or cosmopolitan, was a don’t miss every night (full menus later in the review).

After dinner we chose to skip the entertainment, as we did for the first couple of nights. Had we gone, we would have seen Duo Louvilov and his amazing acrobats, along with the Royal Caribbean dancers. Although I hated to miss seeing all of the balls and batons in the air, I chose to find the cigar bar. On the B.O.S. the designated cigar bar was the Hollywood Odyssey, which was located on the Deck 13, the highest deck on the ship. This bar almost always had piano or easy listening entertainment from 10:00 p.m. to         12:00 a.m. Throughout the cruise, I felt like the music ended too early in the Odyssey. Sets that ended at 1:00 a.m. would have served the needs of passengers much better. That said, the music was great, the atmosphere sublime, and the service excellent. Consequently, this was often my last haunt of the night, although I almost always went alone, since my wife hated cigar smoke; this was fair enough since I hated exercising, which was her favorite activity.

Speaking of exercise and fitness, which I tried not to during the cruise, my three grown children and my wife all lost weight on this trip. Each was very happy with the exercise program. There were many free, instructor-led sessions, as well as for-fee sessions. My family gravitated to the free sessions. These included Fab Abs, Total Body Conditioning, Body Definition, and Walk-a-Mile. Led by Renee and Mick, they seemed to more than meet my family’s need for physical abuse while cruising. These were not watered-down classes for the workout challenged. The trainers expected passengers to come ready to work hard. Unless we were off the ship, one or more of my party participated in the Walk-a-Mile each day at 4:00 p.m., which was six laps around the ship’s track. A secondary motivation for staying trim was the onboard carrot known as shipshape dollars. These were handed out when individuals participated in active activities. As a passenger accumulated shipshape dollars they traded them in for “amazing” stuff, such as key chains, plastic bottles, and workout towels. If shipshape dollars had been real money, we could have paid for the cruise with them. I, too, contributed three shipshape dollars to our family fund: I attended a Rumba class with my wife---torture, torture, torture---participated in the miniature golf tournament (which my wife and I won), and a bago tournament. I had not encountered the game of bago before; it was a very “sophisticated” game in which the contestants threw a bean bag into a hole. But I was not complaining, I took silver, beating an old woman and three children (all of whom were under five). I highly recommend bago for people whose spouses expect them to contribute to the shipshape-dollars fund. Enough about exercise, my fingers are getting tired.

Day two was the French Riviera. With two exceptions, all of our days began the same. We skipped the Minstrel dining room and room service and ate at the Windjammer. The Windjammer was the Brilliance’s buffet-style restaurant. For breakfast and lunch they did a good job, if not a great job. For breakfast there were always eggs, waffles, French toast, ham, bacon, sausage, fruit, cereal, assorted sweet rolls, and made-to-order omelets. The omelets were the best of the offerings. Later in the cruise we decided that using room service on excursion days would save us time. This was a mistake, for nothing we ordered was edible. The eggs were powdery, the bacon rancid, and the sausage tasted altered. It was our one and only experiment with room service.

After breakfast we prepared to tender to Villefranche. Most days we had to go to the Discovery Desk early in the morning in order to obtain tendering tickets (tendering tickets were not necessary when we had booked a ship’s shore excursions).  It became obvious that getting to the desk early was important, for the lines got long. Further, the first two or three tenders left smoothly and quickly, but after that, tendering became organized chaos. Each time we had tickets for tender five or later, things broke down completely; that is, the de-boarding staff made an announcement that they were no longer going to look at tickets and it was first-come-first-serve. Obviously, this was good news if a person had a really late ticket. We soon learned that if we had tickets for anything other than the first couple of tenders, after tender three or four was called, we would go get in line no matter our tender number. We simply waited for anarchy to break out, and climbed into our tender.

Villefranche was a beautiful seaside French town. In fact, it was so nice one might easily spend an entire day there. There were sandy beaches, plenty of shops, and even private beaches. In France, there were usually two areas on a beach: public and private. The private beaches provided deck chairs, sometimes food/drink service, and other amenities. A price of 30 or 40 Euro was common. However, Villefranche had a large public beach, which was great, if one is looking for a beach day. We decided to make it harder on ourselves and take the train to Nice, and go to the rocky beaches. All of Nice’s beaches were Rocky, which we didn’t mind as it meant we did not have to ride the train back with sand in our bathing suits.

The train station was to the right and up a hill from where passengers disembarked the tenders. The landside of the station was where we bought tickets. We asked for roundtrip tickets to Nice. We had been told in advance that we needed to get the ticket stamped in a machine before we entered the train. This turned out not to be true. The stamp machines were covered; we were informed stamping was no longer necessary in this area.  There were three main destinations from which passengers could choose: Nice, Cannes, and Monte Carlo. The problem with Monte Carlo was that the casinos didn’t open until 2:00 p.m. and required guests to dress. Additionally, the beach was private and exclusive; that is, even if a person had Euros, there was no guarantee that visitors were going to be granted admittance. Cannes was a significant train trip from Villefranche. Anyway, once we obtained our tickets, we crossed back to other side of the tracks to head to Nice. We waited for more than one hour. I was told that this was not unusual. It became clear that French trains in the region did not always come when they were supposed to. Once on the train, we got off at the second Nice exit (exit Nice-Ville). The first one would have left us far from the beach.

Nice itself was a beautiful town. Its architecture was classically French, with cafes on every block. We knew not to try a café on this excursion, because we would have needed to leave at least two and half hours to eat. The French consider it rude to rush café patrons along, and getting angry will lead to being ignored. However, a day just shopping and eating in Nice would have been a day well spent. But that was not the day that we had planned. After about a fifteen-block walk we made it to the public beach. It was clean and we felt comfortable. Of course, there was some nudity. I had warned my twelve-year-old and he quickly adapted. Yeah, why wouldn’t he adapt. Come to think of it his brothers and I quickly adapted too. I digress. Toilets were an issue as they were not available at the public beaches. Most of the cafés provided toilets, but they were definitely for patrons only, unless one liked screaming Frenchmen two inches from his face.

Once our beach adventure was over, we headed back to the train station. This was where things got ugly. The train station at Nice was a large, central station, with short- and long-distance trains continually arriving. We were not sure which was ours. At the last minute we jumped off of one train back onto the platform. At that same moment I discovered that I had lost my ticket. This meant I had to go get a new one. My middle son had pity on me and joined me. Meanwhile, my wife jumped into the employee car of another train, which proceeded to take off to Monte Carlo---no more wife. Thus, the picture was two of us getting tickets, three confused on the platform, and one headed to Monte Carlo. After a thrity-minute line we proceeded back to the platform, now sure of our train. There we discovered the other three. Eventually, our train came, and the five of us headed to Villefranche. However, at the last Nice stop my wife was waiting for us. The employees stopped the train and let her off. Incredibly, we all arrived back at the ship together.

After a leisurely late afternoon, we prepared for dinner. Night two, like night one, was casual. For women this usually meant a sun dress, or pants suit. I wore a polo or button-down shirt, with some type of slacks. Among younger cruisers, there were individuals wearing jeans to the casual nights. This was very rare among the 35+ crowd. On casual nights appetizers and soups were usually the best fare on the menu. Examples included stuffed mushrooms, cold peach soup, French-onion soup, various salads, and a cheese plate. There was a mixed offering of entrees that usually included one of the following: chicken, seafood, beef, and a vegetarian dish. Desserts were varied and always great. Ice cream could be requested on anything. There was always a low-calorie option as well.

After dinner I stayed in the stateroom to watch the twelve-year-old. My wife was off to the casino; I also found my way to the casino on many other occasions. The casino was better than average for a shipboard casino. It was, of course, always closed while in port. Gaming options included slot machines, black jack, roulette, craps, three-card poker, and Texas old ‘em. My wife preferred the pushy quarter game, for lack of a better term. She believed she could tell the precise moment to put in a quarter to make the maximum number of quarters fall into the tray. In fairness to her, she seemed to win. On subsequent days, I played craps and entered the Texas hold ‘em tournament.

The basics of the Texas hold ‘em tournament were as follows: The buy-in was fifty dollars, not Euro. Players were scheduled to play at a table of seven at 1:00 p.m. or 4:00 p.m. on the first sea day or at 1:00 p.m. on the second sea day. Blinds were raised every ten minutes, and players started with $800. After twenty minutes, players could buy an additional $500 in chips for $25.00. The winners from each preliminary table went to the final table, which began at 4:00 p.m. on the second sea day. Each player brought all of his/her chips from the preliminary table, which varied due to the optional $500 extra buy. I did not make it to the final table, going out with two players left. The winner from my table went on to win the whole thing. I heard he received $900, but I never confirmed this information. The casino was one place that passengers were allowed to use cash. Additionally, passengers were able to use their sea pass cards to obtain cash. There was a $2,000 limit on how much cash passengers could obtain on their sea pass card.

In talking about money, what about crime? People on my cruise and people on most future cruises will be victims of crime. It was and is inevitable. I was told two stories by people on our cruise. In the first case, the family’s money was primarily carried by the wife in a fanny pack carried below the waistline. She was pick pocketed by a man in front of her in a crowd. He reached behind his back to access her fanny pack as they both walked. He rifled through it, took the credit cards, and left everything else. Within twenty minutes the cards were being used in high-end stores in France. In the second case the woman was with her young daughter in a church. A person came up and snatched her purse in the church. In both cases the cards and money were not recovered. Here was what we did to protect ourselves. I carried a fake wallet. In it was a dollar wrapped around paper to look like a wad of cash. Long before the trip, we also began saving those fake, plastic credit cards we all get. I had five of those in my wallet. My real money was kept in a money belt in my pants below my waist. The belt contained no metal, so even in airports I did not have to mess with it. Once on the ship, we put half of our money in the stateroom safe and the other half in a safety deposit box in the pursuers’ office. (These went quickly so we obtained it as soon as we came onboard). On excursion days I took my fake wallet, with my wife caring any incidental money we needed. If we thought we might need a substantial amount of money, I wore the money belt, only accessing it in a bathroom stall. Obviously, this system was not full proof, but we were not victimized, but neither were most people.

Day three was Livorno, where we were sternly warned about pick pockets. Livorno was not a tendering port so it was easy off and easy on. We chose to take the on-your-own excursion to Florence. On the way we were forced to go to a leather factory, ostensibly to watch leather products made---in reality to entice us to buy some leather products. These mercenary stops were a fact of life on this and every ships’ excursions, so they were expected, if not appreciated. Once in Florence we were dropped in the middle of the city and the day was ours. There was a guide on the bus to Florence who was more than willing to give directions and answer questions.

The most important  thing on our agenda in Florence was to go to the Galleria dell' Accademia to see the statue of David. Since this was a priority, we had obtained tickets in advance of the trip. These were purchased through selectitaly.com. We were given a specific time to arrive at the museum. Upon arriving at the museum, we observed an unbelievably long ling. Fortunately, this line was for people without reservations. We followed the long line to where it entered the museum; there we saw a short second line for those with appointments. The non-reservation line appeared to be an all-day commitment and not practical for those on cruise excursions. Our appointment was for 1:30 p.m., but anything from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. would have worked and given us plenty of time to get to Florence and not rush through the museum. For those without the time or reservations, there was a way to sneak a peak at the David. Just beyond where the lines entered the museum, there was an exit door. People were able to look through the exit door and off in the distance they saw the David.
Along with the Galleria dell' Accademia. We enjoyed a meal at a café, saw Santa Croce Church (where Machiavelli and Michael Angelo were buried), and also saw the Duomo. There was a long line and a short line for the Duomo. The long line took people up into the rafters (I was afraid of heights so this wasn’t an option), while the shorter line took guests into the Duomo at the ground-floor level. We chose the ground floor. Unlike the Sistine Chapel, guests were welcome to take pictures in the Duomo. In all chapels and cathedrals women were expected to wear modest dress and men had to remove any headwear. There were also plenty of shops and other museums to fill the day in Florence. For this reason, we opted to skip Pisa.

Dinner on the night of Florence was smart casual. For men this generally meant a sport jacket with a dress shirt but not a tie. Certainly there were men who did not wear sport jackets, but they were the exception. For women, smart casual translated into nicer dresses, although not the cocktail dresses that were worn on formal nights. The following was an example of a smart casual menu:
Appetizers

Duo of Melon an Grapefruit
Baby Shrimp Salad
Melon Prosciutto
Lentils with Root Vegetable Soup
Cock-a-Leekie (chicken broth with rice, leeks, and prunes)
Garden Salad
Caesar Salad
Cheese Plate
Entrees
Singapore Noodles (rice noodles with shredded pork, shrimp, and vegetables)
Sole Meuniere
Roasted Chicken
Alloo Gobi (curried cauliflower and sweet potatoes served with samosa, raita, and bread)
Mustard-crusted roast beef
Alternative Selection (These entrees were available every night)
Fettuccine with Marinara Sauce
Broiled Fillet of Norwegian Salmon
Grilled Black Angus Top Sirloin Steak with Herb Butter
Desserts
Chocolate Bread Pudding
Traditional English Trifle (sherry soaked sponge cake)
Pecan Butterscotch Tart
Suagr-free Pineapple Upside Down Cake
Low-fat Poached Peaches
Ice Cream, Sugar-free Ice Cream, assorted Sorbets.

Following dinner, I was on baby-sitting duty and everyone else went out. For my two older sons ages 21 and 23, going out usually meant a night at the Starquest Disco, located on Deck 13 next to the Hollywood Odyssey. The Starquest featured a rotating bar and catered to a younger crowd. We certainly found people 30+ plus in the Starquest earlier in the evening but by 1:00 a.m. it was mostly people under thirty. The Starquest and the casino bars stayed open later than the other bars. My sons told me the Starquest was open after 3:00 a.m. on many nights. Indeed, the Starquest did not post a closing time. Younger teenagers under 18, were not admitted to the Starquest after 10:00 p.m. One of the more pathetic sights on the cruise was the nightly accumulation of pre-18’s that gathered just underneath the Starquest in the Crown and Anchor Lounge. They often spilled out into the corridors and stairs, where they were sometimes a nuisance. Curfew for children under 18 was 1:00 a.m. The result of this late curfew was bored bans of adolescents. A more reasonable policy would have been to insist that children under 18 be with parents after 10:00 p.m. I suspected even the adolescents would have been happier. The problem of bored children aside, day four was Rome.

Cicitavecchia was not a tendering port, which was always a good thing. Cicitavecchia was about seventy to ninety minutes from Rome, depending on the traffic. Through much inquiry we had been told that the ship’s excursions to Rome were very limiting; one could expect to see only a few of the most important locations in Rome. Consequently, we booked a private tour with Rome Cabs. They came highly recommended, although I was skeptical when they did not ask for any money during the booking process. Happily, our driver, Alberto, met us at the dock. Alberto quickly drove us to Rome, where we managed to see all of the major sites. He knew how to purchase tickets before getting to the Coloseum, so as to avoid the entire line. At the Vatican he whisked us to the front of the long line and in we went. Before we entered, he told us how to navigate through the labyrinth that was the Vatican in the most efficient way. This efficiency continued throughout the day.

We saw all of the following while in Rome---what a day: St. Mary’s Church, Hadrian’s Arch, the Colosseum, View of the Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Caracalla’s Baths, view of the Vatican, Forum, several Republican era monuments, ruins of a Roman empire apartments, catacombs, Pantheon, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Vatican Museum, Map Room at the Vatican, and the Sistine Chapel. The only cautionary advice we had received was that Rome Cabs had a tendency to cut it close relative to all-aboard. Consequently, as soon as we met Alberto I told him we had to be back at the ship at 5:00 p.m. We were. That evening the only other people we talked to who were satisfied with their day was a family who used the same service that we had. When we took a family poll at the end of the trip as to what was our favorite day, Rome was number one with all six of us. We had planned on tipping Alberto 50 Euro, but he more than earned the 100 Euro we gave him.

Dinner the night of Rome was casual/country western. Very few people actually wore country-western clothing, but this certainly was the night in which blue jeans were the most acceptable. I was disappointed that none of the waiters and almost no staff wore country-western clothing. After dinner, I spent the late evening listening to the Rosario Strings and enjoying cigars and cognac in the Hollywood Odyssey. The Rosario Strings played both classical and standards. This pleasant evening capped off a perfect day. About 12:30 a.m. I made my way to the cabin.

A good nights rest and we were ready for day five---a sea day. The itinerary for this cruise was perfect. The longest days were Rome and Florence, which meant by day five a sea day was a welcome respite. This was the morning that my youngest son and I tried the Minstrel for breakfast. I ordered the freshly baked pastries; disappointingly, they were identical to those served in the Windjammer. I also ordered eggs benedict. This was pretty good and probably the only thing on the menu that I couldn’t have found in the Windjammer. The menu for that morning was a follows:

Freshly baked pastries
Cold Cereals
Hot Cereals
Fruits
Regular or Fat-Free Yogurt
Pancakes or French toast
Kippered Herring
Smoked Salmon
Eggs
Bacon
Sausage
Omelettes
Eggs Benedict

My youngest son loved miniature golf, so after breakfast we found our way to deck 13 and the course. The course didn’t have all of the bells and whistles of a land-based course, but it gave us many hours of enjoyment. Following golf, it was off to the pools.

The Brilliance of the Seas had three pools. The main pool was where most people of all ages opted to be. There were plenty of shaded and sunny spots. There were also several jacuzzis in this area. The pool and jacuzzis stayed clean and bar service around the pool was consistent. The main pool was right next to the Windjammer, making it easy to run in and grab a lemonade or ice cream cone. There were two levels to the main pool area. The lower, where the pool was actually located, and the upper area. A younger crowd tended to gather in the upper area, but there were people of all ages in both areas. There was one bar for the upper area and one for the lower area. Getting drinks was not a problem, lounge chairs were a different story. Royal Caribbean issued a stern warning against people saving spots with towels. The reality was somewhat different. On sea days most of the spots were gone by 10:00 a.m., although many chairs were not actually occupied.

There were two other pools on the Brilliance. The children’s pool was primarily used by families with children under twelve. The children’s pool had a water slide attached to it, although my son complained that it moved so slow children had to push themselves through the slide. This pool was also consistently clean. The Solarium Pool was the showcase pool on the ship. It was adults-only, and this rule was enforced. The roof was retractable, which made tanning possible on some days. The décor of the Solarium Pool was orange and pink. Buddha and elephant statues of all sizes served as interest points. There was also a bar in this area. Bar service was not as reliable here, so using the pool bar was a good idea. Large windows on both sides of the pool provided panoramic views. The atmosphere here was quiet and relaxing and I fell asleep more than once around the Solarium Pool.

Night five was the first formal night. The vast majority of people still dressed on formal nights, even children. Men wore tuxedos or suits. Tuxedo rentals were available on the ship. There were many men wearing tuxedos, so tuxedo guys did not feel out of place on this cruise. For women, it was cocktails dresses only. There were three formal nights on this twelve-night Mediterranean cruise, so women needed to spend some time planning their wardrobe.

We chose to use this first formal night to eat at the Portifino Restaurant. There were two fee restaurants aboard the B.O.S., the Portifino and Chops. For $20 per person, these restaurants provided an upscale dining experience. The best reservations for these restaurants go quickly so we made our reservations the first day. Both restaurants had beautiful ocean views; as one might imagine, reservations for tables along the window went first.

The Portifino offered a large selection of wines. The red wines tended to be younger vintages than one might find at a good restaurant in New York or Chicago. However, the nature of cruising made this a necessity. To compensate for this problem, Royal Caribbean attempted to choose wines that matured earlier. We chose a nice five-year-old cabernet. Unfortunately, white-wine glasses were provided. My oldest son asked for red-wine glasses, but he was told there were none. This did not ring true, since he had just spotted them earlier in the day in another venue. This explained, they went off to find red-wine glasses. As the wine began to be poured, it was apparent that there was another problem, the server could not pour. One after another wine landed on our plates, utensils, and clothes. Of course the reader of this review might also conclude, “Had you not asked for new wine glasses, maybe all of the wine would have ended up in the glass.” Good point. Revenge aside, the Portifino probably could have raised its level of sophistication by providing better training to its employees.

While the wine service was poor, the food at the Portifino was great. We ordered the shish kabob with a lobster tail, scallops, shrimp (red wine with fish because my wife is Italian and loves red wine). The presentation of the shish kabob was outstanding. They were presented hanging on a chain. Having all six of these hanging shish kabobs brought to the table made quite an esthetic impression. The lobster was fantastic as was all of the food. The desserts were decadent and worth saving room for. Note: The gratuity for Portifino was automatically added to the bill. This was our favorite meal of the cruise. My wife really didn’t want to try the Portifino but even she was glad that we had. Breaking up the routine of the Minstrel every night was a nice treat.

Next to Portifino and Chops was the Schooner Bar. It was here that I spent my fifth night. This nautically-themed bar offered a full selection of spirits, beer, beer on tap, and champagne. Large models of schooners, some six-feet long, decorated the bar. Every night piano music was played in the Schooner. This music tended to go a little later than the Hollywood Odyssey and certainly started much earlier. On sea days, the first set started as early as 5:30 p.m. Some nights there were sing-alongs as well. Sing-alongs were not to my taste, but I did experience one on a subsequent night; I must confess, everyone seemed to have a great time. On this first evening Pete Thompson played the piano. Mr. Thompson created a festive mood any time that I heard him play.

The atmosphere in the Schooner was a little louder and the music more up-tempo than the Hollywood Odyssey. The Schooner Bar was a great place to hang out; however, it did have one flaw. It was located in a thoroughfare between the colony club and points forward. The result was people were always briskly walking right through the middle of the bar. Indeed, this thoroughfare split the bar in two. When an event was beginning in the Colony Club, the number of people moving through the Schooner Bar could be disquieting. Despite the ergonomic flaw, a nice night was enjoyed at the Schooner Bar on the way to day six and the Mykonos.

While cruising to the Mykonos, clocks went forward one hour. Individuals with excursions who forgot to change their clocks missed their excursions. This raises the question,” Excursion or not at the Mykonos?” In the end we chose not to book an excursion, and we were quite happy with our decision. This was a tender port. Some reviews have stated that once passengers land they must take a shuttle to the town. This was not the case for our cruise. Our tender landed right at the town. We were in shops sixty seconds after landing. The town was really an attraction unto itself. A blue and white theme dominated everything. Wonderful cafes were abundant.

After shopping, we settled into an open-air café with a roof made of flower-adorned lattice. We sat down at 2:30 p.m. and finished at 6:00 p.m. (this was not cutting it close as the ship did not leave until 9:00 p.m.). Beer, Greek breads, mushrooms, and Greek pastas satisfied our culinary needs. Leaving plenty of time for café dining saved us from becoming angry tourists. Note: If after looking at the town visitors wanted to see more of the island, cars and scooters were readily available for rent.  I noticed a price of 4 Euro for a two-hour scooter rental.

Dinner after the Mykonos was casual. However, from about day six on the number of people dining in the Minstrel declined, except on formal nights. Entrees included cheese tortelloni in a light blue cheese sauce, orange lime salmon, thyme and garlic lamb            t-bones, risotto primavera, and grilled pork chop. I opted for the tortelloni. As a Blue cheese lover I found this a wonderful change from a regular cream sauce or marinara. Unfortunately, it was flavorful enough that non-blue cheese lovers probably could not enjoy it. The sad reality was it was about this point we started to eat all of the desserts. Here was what was on the menu (we ate all of it, and it was all good): black forest mousse, dulce de leche cheesecake, flavored baked Alaska, and low-fat Washington apple cobbler; the low-fat in the name was just a cruel joke.

Following dinner, we attempted to work off some calories by strolling on the upper decks. The Brilliance had many outside and windowed areas that were perfect for strolling. The velocity of the wind on the top decks became surprisingly powerful. It was very easy to see how an intoxicated person could have gone overboard in the strong winds. Winds that night were 25 mph +, when combined with the ship’s speed, gusts of 50mph were occurring frequently. Royal Caribbean could have aided in passenger safety by posting wind warnings on deck 12.

After our stroll, we went to the Pacifica Theater (the primary entertainment venue on the ship) to enjoy a show titled “Big Time Swing.” The house dancers and singers provided all the music and dancing. They did a good job for a ship’s band. In the past it has been very easy for reviewers to criticize shipboard entertainment, but the musicians were professionals and provided a nice hour of entertainment. My wife and I sat in the balcony every night we went to the Pacifica. The most forward balcony seats looked right down on the stage, which seems to be a small secret as almost nobody sat in the balcony. Additionally, at the beginning of most performances, a bar waiter took orders in the balcony.

Day seven found us at the port of Kusadasi, Turkey. The wharf was within easy walking distance of the primary shopping area as well as Pigeon Island. We chose an excursion that took us to the Roman ruins at Ephesus. Our driver spoke good, if not great, English. Ephesus was so large that a four-hour excursion only allowed enough time to hit the highlights; these included the library, amphitheatre and a small portion of the residential section. A short reenactment greeted visitors before entering the actual ruins. The reenactment was not well done and stole time from visiting the ruins themselves. When we were given fifteen minutes on our own, we made our way into several homes in which floor mosaics were still extant. In one home a small bowel was still on the floor. Almost total access was granted to the ruins, which was great for tourists, although probably not for the preservation of the site.

Ephesus, as with most of the excursion sites, got warm. Usually the ship sold water, $4.00 a bottle, at the exit gangway. Some excursions also provided water. This was the case at Ephesus. Whether provided or purchased, water was essential for enjoying these outdoor excursions. Following Ephesus, the bus took us to the perfunctory retail outlet, masquerading as a factory. In this case it was a carpet factory. It was close enough to the ship that I felt comfortable, along with son number two, to leave the tour and make our way back to the ship. Shopping was plentiful in this area. My wife and daughter left the ship three times that day to walk into the central shopping region. Store owners were aggressive but good deals could be found.

Dinner that night was casual 70’s attire. Crew and passengers ignored the 70’s but adopted the casual. (Passengers needed to be warned before their cruise about these thematic nights, in order for there to be a lot of participation.) Before dinner, my wife and I took in the 7:15 p.m. show at the Pacifica. Australian pianist Bernard Walz was featured. His selections included several ragtime favorites as well as more contemporary tunes. This show was significantly better than many shipboard presentations that I have attended in the past. For guests with early seating, there was always a 9:00 p.m. performance at the Pacifica. However, for late seaters the performances fluctuated between 7:00 p.m., 7:15 p.m., or 11:00 p.m. The Cruise Compass (the ship’s newspaper), which was delivered daily, provided performer and performance times for each day of the cruise, as well as dinner attire and other entertainment/recreational scheduling.

After dinner, we made our way to the Starquest Disco where we jammed to DJ Luis as he spun some “hip seventies sounds.”  Alright maybe we didn’t jam, but we did dance a little and managed to spy on our older sons as they made conversation with the young ladies who frequented the Starquest each night. That got old quick, and uncomfortable, so it was off to bed.

Athens, Athens! There were two twelve-day trips in the Mediterranean offered by Royal Caribbean. One went to Venice, one to Athens. It was Athens that became the deciding factor in our choice. Who could resist the Parthenon sitting high atop the Acropolis. Yet in the end, Athens fell far short or our expectations and was voted least favorite stop by our family of six. Athens was not a tendering stop, allowing us to quickly get aboard the busses that took us on our Royal Caribbean excursion. The problems began before we arrived. The preceding day we were told that the workers at the Acropolis and the museums were on strike. Thus, we would be able to go to the base of the Acropolis, but we would not be able to walk up to the Parthenon. We were given the option of canceling our excursion, which we did not choose. The consensus was that seeing the Parthenon would be enough. Our bus did not take us directly to the Acropolis, instead circuitous meandering through the streets of Athens was punctuated with the guide regaling us with “fascinating” stories about when each apartment complex had been built. When the bus did arrive at the Acropolis, we were escorted to an area out of view of the Parthenon, where the guide talked for thirty minutes. She then told us that we had ten minutes to take pictures and get back on the bus. Okay, the workers were on strike and we couldn’t go up---fair enough. However, restricting us to ten minutes to take in all that there was to see at the Acropolis was not reasonable. During the rest of the excursion we toured the venues that had been built for the 2000 Olympics. How grateful we were when they allowed us 35 minutes to view the football stadium---not really.
By the time they took us to the shopping district, we just wanted out. We grabbed the first cab and headed to the ship. The cab cost us 20 Euro for six of us. We quickly realized we should have taken a cab from the ship and gone directly to the Acropolis. Roundtrip would have cost us 40 Euro, ten percent of our excursion cost, and the cab driver was far more interesting than the guide. Although we did get nervous during the following dialogue by the taxi driver, “This is an immigrant neighborhood. You see that outdoor market. I take you there if you want. You can get guns, drugs, people---whatever you want.” Since guns, drugs, and people were not on our shopping list, we thanked him for his invitation and let him know that taking us to the ship would be adequate. Note: The taxis came right to the ship, making the taxi option at Athens an easy alternative to shore excursions.

Athens was the one formal night that occurred on a port day. This was obviously more of a problem for those with early seating than late seating. On some ships the second formal night is lobster night, but not on the Brilliance. Before dinner we caught Daniel Bouchet in the Pacifica. Bouchet specialized in Tango music. He definitely got the crowd into it. However, he was heckled by a few Spanish-speaking passengers when he forgot to translate into Spanish a few comments he made between songs.
Entrees for the second formal night included baked cheese cannelloni, pan-seared tilapia, pan-fried pork medallions, wild mushroom and goat cheese pizza, and Asian duck. I selected the duck, which was excellent. Dessert? Yes, we had it all. Once again I was not proud of it, but here was what we ate: white chocolate cheesecake, pear tart bourdalou, chocolate banana strudel (this was really good), and ice cream---so much ice cream. After dinner, I was on child-sitting duty with the youngest. There was babysitting available for a fee onboard, but we did not use it nor did I meet anyone who did.

No longer sleeping well due to an excess of desserts, we awoke on day nine ready for Santorini. While Rome was a favorite, we all agreed that Santorini was the place to which we would most like to return. The view from the ship alone was magical, as was the entire place. We did not even consider a ship’s excursion in Santorini. Fira was such a beautiful town and so easily accessed that a ship’s excursion was not necessary. Santorini was a tendering port, but by this point the crew had given up on tender tickets. When passengers were ready to go ashore, they got in line. The tenders dropped passengers off at the base of a steep cliff. Fira was at the top of the cliff. There were three ways to get to the top: tram (4 Euro), donkeys (price to be negotiated---before starting up), walk (which was free). I took the tram and my wife took the donkeys. We both arrived safely. Whatever the choice, once at the top visitors were in the heart of Fira. Photographic opportunities were everywhere. It was one of the few places I have ever traveled where I regretted not taking more photographs without people. The town acted as a muse for even the most unaccomplished photographer. Along with photos, there was limitless shopping. Here the shopkeepers were not aggressive but neither were they very flexible. Cafes were present, though not numerous. For individuals seeking to explore the island, there were cars and scooters for rent.

After an unforgettable day in Santorini, the Pacifica Theatre featured Renato Paliari. Renato was a true performer, who succeeded in getting the crowd very involved in his performance. A combination of humor and music made for an entertaining night. Casual/toga attire was called for at the Minstrel, although I saw no staff or passengers in toga attire during dinner. However, from 11:30 p.m. until 1:00 a.m. the ship hosted a toga party around the main pool. Togas were supplied and tied by the staff. Each passenger lined up to get his/her bed sheets properly wrapped. Some individuals chose to go toga- only, while others wore the toga directly over their clothing. Toga tying was followed by a poolside banquet, complete with all the right buffet foods and ice sculptures. A dance floor was set up, with D J Luis playing the music. This was a very well attended and executed event. The good food and music made it a great night.

When I booked this cruise the itinerary was the driving force, but once on the cruise the sea days were as welcome as the excursions; day ten was a sea day. Breakfast at the Windjammer was followed by a round of morning bingo. It was my experience that bingo usually did not start on time. Blackout seemed to be the game of choice aboard the B.O.S. Bingo was played in the Colony Club and attracted sizeable crowds. In order to get a booth or good seat, passengers had to arrive early. Any player who got a bingo in 50 or less numbers won the bingo pool. This carried over until the last day of the cruise on Friday, when it was more than $3,000. The money from the pool was guaranteed to be paid out on the last day.

This was also the day that passports were returned. Passports were returned to passengers on deck 5 of the Minstrel. In theory, each guest needed to bring the passport receipt that they had been given the first day. Mine was buried in the safe, so I just took my sea pass card, which was sufficient. Guests on decks 8, 9, and 10 collected passports from 10:00 a.m. until 11:30 a.m. Those on decks 7, 4, 3, 2 lined up between 11:30 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. This was a nuisance, but the lines moved quickly.

This second sea day was formal attire and lobster night. This is the one day we knew that we would not go to Chops or the Portifino. Apparently we were not the only ones committed to eating at the Minstrel that night, because there appeared not to be an empty seat in either level of the dining room. The lobsters were small, so requesting two was common and not a problem. Our server had asked us in advance how many lobsters we would like per person. Formal nights have begun to be criticized by some frequent cruisers, but they were always a lot of fun and created a great atmosphere on the ship. Most people stayed in their formal attire after dinner; this was particularly true for those over 30. That night we retired early in order to be ready for our last excursion.

Naples was a beautiful city, made more beautiful by the fact passengers did not have to tender. For those who only wanted to see Naples, the harbor was attached to the city. A three minute walk put passengers in the heart of Napoli. There were few, if any, taxis at the wharf, so taxi people found this port more challenging. We opted for an excursion to Pompeii. All of the available ship excursions allowed for less than four hours at the site. Individuals who desired more time at Pompeii needed to investigate private tours. There was no water provided on this excursion, so bringing water was a must. On the way to Pompeii our retail stop was a Cameo factory/store. This stop bothered me more than others. Pompeii was vast and there was such a limited time at the ruins that stopping to sell tourists cameos seemed offensive.

At Pompeii we were given time to use the restroom and purchase water or other refreshments before the tour began. A four-hour trip to Pompeii did not begin to cover the area. The appropriate result was that our guide tried to show visitors a variety of areas, along with the real highlights. A must see were the paintings above each of the rooms of a brothel; each depicted the “specialty” of the woman who lived in a particular room. The amount of original mosaic and art work in the homes was amazing. Further, virtually all of the streets were extant. In on of the bathes, the original roof was still present. For travelers with even a passing interest in history or archaeology, Pompeii was a stop that could not be missed. As a bonus, Mt. Vesuvius was clearly visible going to and from the ship.

Our excursion put us back on the ship by 12:30 p.m. This left plenty of time to see Naples for passengers who wanted to visit the city. From the ship I counted thirteen church domes. Despite the lure of Naples, we opted for a leisurely afternoon of lunch, time around the pool and taking in a late-afternoon movie. Lunch was at the Seaview Café, which was located on deck twelve above the Windjammer. This was an Italian themed restaurant that specialized in sandwiches and pizzas to order. There were an impressive number of ingredients available on pizzas. I enjoyed a blue cheese, mushroom, and ham pizza. There was also limited bar service available in the Seaview. The Seaview was a nice alternative for lunch, though its menu was too limited for dinner. After lunch and the pool, it was off to the movies.
Each day the same movie was shown four times. The Cruise Compass listed the movie and times. The theatre was located forward of the casino on Deck 6. It was easy to miss, because there was only a small curtain at the entrance. Movies appeared to be projected using a DVD projector. The large screen size meant that the quality of the picture was not great. Despite this problem, the atmosphere was pleasant. Enough people went to the movies that if passengers had a specific area in which they liked to sit, arriving ten or fifteen minutes early was a good idea.

Dinner was casual/Rock n’ roll attire. This meant lots of blue jeans, again. By this point some items began to repeat on the menu, which afforded passengers the opportunity to revisit old favorites. Bars and the casino were extremely busy after dinner. Passengers knew that this was the last night before they had to pack up. We visited some of favorite haunts, staying out quite late.

Oh no, the last day. The general rule on a ship was/is not to mention that it is the last day, at least not to speak of it in public. I witnessed the following encounter at the Schooner Bar between a man and woman who were not sitting together.

Man: “Well, today is the last.”
Woman: “Oh no, don’t say that.”
Man: “Time to get packed this evening.”
Woman: “Please, stop I don’t want to hear anymore.”

Everyone knew it was the last day; there was no need to advertise this fact. Our day was spent at the pool, miniature golf course, rock climbing (I watched), eating eating eating, Dinner was casual. This was the night to extend gratuities to the head waiter, waiter, and assistant waiter. We chose prepaid gratuities since there were six of us, and we did not want to carry more cash. If a passenger chose the option of prepaid gratuities, on day eleven he/she received perforated coupons for the stateroom attendant and the aforementioned Minstrel staff. Since we had six people in our party, we received six set of coupons, but only one set of envelopes for each person to whom a gratuity was to be extended. (The stateroom attendant received her gratuity this same evening.) Following the presentation of gratuities to the table staff, we said our good byes to our tablemates.

We had packed somewhat in the afternoon. We finished this process after dinner. On day eleven passengers were given color and number coded luggage tags. These were to be placed on each piece of luggage, other than hand-carried luggage. Between 7:00 p.m. and 12:00 a.m. all luggage was placed outside the stateroom. Stewards continually picked up luggage. It was important to remember to note the number on the tags as well as the color.
The luggage out, it was time for bed and horrors of the following day.

We were told that virtually all passengers would be off the ship by 9:00 a.m. Just before 7:00 a.m. an announcer began to name colors and numbers (based on luggage tags) of people who should disembark. For example, “At this time all passengers with yellow one and red one tags may proceed to the de-boarding area for disembarkation,” Theoretically, people with the earliest flights got the first call. The dining room was only open from 7:00 a.m. until    8:00 a.m. Passengers who wanted to eat needed to get there early, and it was very full. Once a passenger’s number was called, their entire party took all of their belongings (excluding the checked luggage) to the de-boarding area. We ran a little late, which could have caused us some problems: We had purchased pier to airport transfers through Royal Caribbean. Busses and luggage trucks were assigned for each color and number. Passengers who ran too late could find themselves missing their busses. Before boarding the busses, parties proceeded to an area set aside for their color and number. There they reclaimed their luggage (done on the honor system) and proceeded with it to the luggage truck. After the luggage was checked, it was onto the buses. At the airport the busses were parked next to the luggage truck where the luggage was returned (honor system again).

Instead of Air France we flew back to Los Angeles on Delta, with a connection in Atlanta. Anyone who flew knew not to connect through Atlanta on Delta, but our reservations were made by Royal Caribbean. As soon as we entered the airport at Barcelona, we discovered that our flight was delayed two hours. This meant a rescheduling of our connection. After sitting from 9:00 a.m. until 4:00 p.m. in Barcelona airport, our flight took off. Service was good and the in-flight entertainment was great. I loved the behind-the-seat monitor. Once in Atlanta we were told, just as in Paris, there was no gate for us. When one did open up, in one of the strangest coincidences of my life, the gateway broke, just like in Paris. I tried to stay calm, as I get easily annoyed in airports, but my head was about to explode. Eventually the problem was fixed, but we now had thirty-five minutes to gather twelve pieces of luggage, clear customs, clear immigration, re-check our luggage, and make it to the farthest terminal from ours. Eleven pieces of luggage showed up, one did not. We waited and waited. Finally, it rolled down. Now we were running through the airport like a bad commercial. We got through customs and immigration, dropped off our luggage, and jumped on the correct tram and got into the right terminal. We then discovered that our gate was the last one in the terminal---more running. After all that, we just made our flight. When we finally walked in our home, it had been twenty-six actual hours since we had entered the Barcelona airport. Was it worth it? Without question!

Royal Caribbean’s twelve-night Greek Isle cruise was a well conceived and executed itinerary. The excursions provided a great mix of history, culture, and beauty. The Brilliance of the Seas was in great shape. The staff, with very few exceptions, provided the kind of exemplary service we expected on a cruise. The food was very good, meeting most of our expectations. Entertainment possibilities abounded on the ship and appealed to a variety of age groups, which was a critical factor for our family. Ultimately, our experience on the Brilliance of the Seas met or exceeded all of our expectations.     
  
 


 


 

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